這個星期因為下一天要搬宿舎從學生宿舎二座往張鑑泉樓,我計劃不去太多地方,最終只探訪了兩個大地點(即龍脊及銅鑼灣):
(Take minibus route 11M from HKUST North Bus Stop to Hang Hau MTR Station, take MTR from Hang Hau MTR Station to Shau Kei Wan MTR Station)
1. Eat a cha-chaan-teng breakfast near Shau Kei Wan MTR Station
(Take KMB route 9 from Shau Kei Wan Bus Terminal to To Tei Wan Village bus stop)
2. Hike through Dragon's Back hiking trail and exit at Tai Long Wan Village
3. Visit the beach at Tai Long Wan Village
4. Eat lunch at a beachside restaurant in Tai Long Wan Village
(Take mini-bus from Tai Long Wan Village to Shau Kei Wan MTR Station, take MTR from Shau Kei Wan MTR Station to Causeway Bay MTR Station)
5. Shop at SOGO, around Causeway Bay, and at Times Square
(Take MTR from Causeway Bay MTR Station to Hang Hau MTR Station, take minibus route 11M from Hang Hau MTR Station to HKUST)
(搭小巴11M號綫從科大北站到坑口地鐵站,然後搭地鐵從坑口地鐵站到筲箕灣地鐵站)
一.近筲箕灣地鐵站一間茶餐廳裡吃早餐
(搭九巴9號綫從筲箕灣巴士總站到土地灣巴士站)
二.跟著龍脊行山徑而行山到大浪灣村的出口
三.探訪大浪灣村沙灘
四.近大浪灣村沙灘一間餐廳裡吃午餐
(搭小巴從大浪灣村到筲箕灣地鐵站,然後搭地鐵從筲箕灣地鐵站到銅鑼灣地鐵站)
五.在崇光(英SOGO)、銅鑼灣附近商店、以及時代廣場裡逛街
(搭地鐵從銅鑼灣地鐵站到坑口地鐵站,然後搭小巴11M號綫從坑口地鐵站到科技大學)
For an area near the eastern terminus of the MTR's Island Line, I hadn't expected much around the Shau Kei Wan area, but to my surprise, I found a bustling community with snack stalls, fruit stalls, and restaurants.
因為筲箕灣幾乎當港鐵港島綫的東總站,所以我原本想像筲箕灣那時沒有猜估有那麼充滿小食店、水果攤、及餐廳的一個旺市區。
Accompanying me on this excursion was my roommate - another research exchange intern - at HKUST's UG Hall II and together, we went to a cha-chaan-teng just south of the MTR station. All the menus are only in Chinese and almost all the servers speak only Cantonese, making the experience of dining at a cha-chaan-teng rather daunting for those unversed in Chinese. But I was glad to enable my roommate experience some "local" Hong Kong food for once and once again, my Chinese skills proved to be useful! For some strange reason, I can only find one of the several pictures I took there - here is the ham and macaroni in soup that I ordered. Part of the combo was some buttered toast, fried egg, and bacon with a Hong Kong-style milk tea on the side - plenty of fuel for the long hike ahead! This cost me $30 HKD ($4.3 CAD).
這一遊行陪我也有同我住在學生宿舎二座的室友(他也是一位交流研究生),我們一起去一間地鐵站以南的一間茶餐廳吃早餐。的確,茶餐廳幾乎一切都用全中文菜單,服務員也幾乎都只懂粵語,所以不太懂中文的遊客去茶餐廳會遇到不少的困難。幸好,因爲我學好足夠的中文所以能夠幫我室友終於嘗試一下「真正」港式餐點—會讀中文又有好處。奇怪是,我找不到我所攝影的幾幅茶餐廳相片,但以下的一幅就是我所吃的火腿湯通粉。同一套餐也包括牛油多士(黃油烤麵包)、煎蛋、煙肉、以及一杯港式奶茶,應該足夠我一會兒後去行山吧!這個早餐我花了三十元。
After my roommate and I took the scenic KMB route 9 bus to To Tei Wan, we arrived at the starting point of Dragon's Back.
我與室友然後搭上了九巴九號綫往土地灣,遇見到很美麗的南洋風景,終於達到龍脊行山徑詞始點。
For a trail as long as Dragon's Back, I was rather surprised that it was often surprisingly well-kept, with stone paths and wooden steps. Then, I remembered reading that a 2004 volume of Time Magazine's Asian version rated Dragon's Back as "Best Urban Hiking Trail in Asia" so surely the trail must live up to its name!
因爲龍脊徑那麼長,我很驚喜地發現其實維持到很好:已經部分有石路、木梯級。其實2004時代雜誌亞洲版已經選龍脊為亞洲「亞洲最佳市區行山徑」,龍脊正是名副其實了!
In fact, one of the things that I love the most about Dragon's Back (and with Hong Kong in general) is that the plant life here is for the most part natural and not artificially planted. Thus, there is a shocking variety of different species represented. Often, I found myself exiting a bamboo grove, entering a thicket of shrubs, and then a forest of different trees.
的確,我最喜歡龍脊(以及香港)其中的一項就是那麼多元化的自然植物,並非人種的。我不少陸續經過竹林、灌木叢、不同樹的樹林。
Actually, I found that Dragon's Back often really resembled a Chinese-style garden. After all, both of them reveal beautiful scenery in a series of views rather than all at once - if the scenery were visible throughout the entire hike, it would make the hiker bored of the scenery. But with the scenery only visible at spaced intervals, anticipation is built and each scene more valued.
很多時,我想到龍脊很象一場中式公園,原因是和中式公園同樣逐漸顯示美景出來,而非全程都看到美景,令到行山者累看風景。
Here, we took a welcome break from the hiking to wipe away some sweat and take a drink of water in the shade.
在此,我們一起在亭子下休息一下而抹走一些汗水、喝一些水。
Near the highest point of the trail, an amazing view of a beach (not Tai Long Wan, as we originally thought) greeted us - you could even hear the voices of the people at the beach very clearly!
山徑最高點附近,我們遇到一場很美麗的海景(我們原本錯誤以爲看到的小鎮是大浪灣),的而且確沙灘的聲音也很清楚地聽到!
The biodiversity of Dragon's Back was astonishing - we encountered many beautiful butterflies but only found a few willing to get a picture taken!
我見到龍脊那麼不同種類生物就很驚喜,我們遇到很多美麗蝴蝶,可惜只有幾隻願意被攝影!
The paved paths we encountered before were relatively easy - the hard part of the trail were the dirt and rock trails.
我們已經嘗試過的石路比較容易用,難的部分就是有泥有石的山徑。
Do you see the big spider? How about now?
你見到大蜘蛛嗎? 現在呢?
Another butterfly...
又有一隻蝴蝶……
See how the bamboo trees arc almost 180 degrees, from straight up at the roots to almost downward at the tips!
你看到嗎?竹彎曲了幾乎180度,樹根向上長到尖端向下!
Finally, we only had to complete the final descent to Tai Long Wan.
終於只剩了下降到大浪灣的行程。
If you look closely, you might be able to spot four spiders in a row...
如果你很仔細地看就可能看到一連四隻蜘蛛……
In fact, all of these spider spottings were first noticed by my roommate, who also spotted the well-camouflaged lizard on the picture at the right (I originally just thought it was a crack in the wall):
的確,全部遇見到蜘蛛都是我室友先看到的,他也見到右相片的特別善於偽裝的一條蜥蜴(其實原本以爲只是牆壁上的一條小裂紋):
Some fellow hikers ahead of us spotted this big beetle first.
幾位先行的行山者已經找到這一隻大甲蟲。
Finally, we arrived at Tai Long Wan, a small but pretty village on the southeast shore of Hong Kong Island.
我們終於達到雖然比較小但仍然有魅力的港島南岸小海濱鎮—大浪灣。
Here is the beautiful Tai Long Wan beach; my roommate went for a quick swim but I contented myself with relaxing and enjoying the view in the shade (I did not bring any swimming gear).
這是很美麗的大浪灣沙灘,我室友很快去游泳一下,我就只好在樹蔭下休息一下而欣賞美景(我沒有攜帶游泳裝備)。
Then, the two of us went to a restaurant a little further inland, as the seaside restaurants were surely much more expensive. We both ordered a fish ball and fish slice hor-fun...yummy!
然之後我們一起去一間距沙灘不遠的一間餐廳(近海灘的餐廳一定會更加貴嘛),每個人都要一碗魚蛋魚片河粉……真好味!
Both of us took the mini-bus back to the MTR at Shau Kei Wan and then went our separate ways - I was headed over to SOGO for some shopping.
我們一起搭小巴往筲箕灣地鐵站,然後自由活動,我去崇光來購物一下。
Unfortunately, the pricing at SOGO was completely unaffordable for me. For example, a simple plain dress shirt might cost $1000 HKD and those were the cheap ones! I moved on to Times Square for some cheaper clothes.
不幸,崇光商店價錢太高了,譬如一件普通比較便宜的恤衫已經要浪費1000元,一個不有錢的交流學生怎麼能付到錢呢?我之後走往時代廣場逛街,購物便宜一下的衣服。
The Causeway Bay Area.
時代廣場市區。
There was a special "One Piece" manga event undergoing at Times Square. Personally, I am no fan but I took some pictures nonetheless.
時代廣場那時舉辦了一場「海賊王」漫畫活動,雖然我不是這種漫畫粉絲,但仍然攝影一下。
Afterwards, I went to a Shanghai-style restaurant for some wonderful Shanghai-style soup noodles, a dish that I have come to really appreciate. I ordered a spare ribs Shanghai noodle soup - the pork ribs were done just right with the proper amount of flavour and weren't too dry nor too fatty.
然後我去一間上海式餐館吃晚餐,而要一餐排骨上海湯麵(我覺得真的越來越欣賞這些上海湯麵了)。我一嘗試這碗麵之後感覺到我所叫的排骨煮到正好:足夠未到,而不太乾,不太肥膩。
After that, I took a short detour to a modern dessert shop - Hui Lau Shan.
之後,我達到一間甜點店—許留山。
Although it originated as a traditional Chinese desserts shop, Hui Lau Shan eventually focused on creating modern Chinese desserts, such as puddings and fruit juice mixes. I eventually ordered the first item on the list - the Mango and Coconut Juice with Aloe Jelly.
雖然原本賣傳統中式甜點,許留山終於集中了賣現代中式甜點,例如布丁及混合水果。我最終要餐單第一個飲品:芒椰蘆薈爽
On the wall is a cute poster showing the history of Hui Lau Shan, complete with too many cultural references for me to completely explain (a notable example being the Kowloon Emperor in the 90's section).
牆壁上有一個很有趣的一幅充滿文化引用的壁畫,而繪畫許留山的歷史(例如在九十年代的部分繪畫了「九龍皇帝」)。
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